OS Map of Riska Island

Loch Moidart

14-Feb-25 • duncan_ireland • flickr

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Castle Tioram

14-Feb-25 • duncan_ireland • flickr

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Castle Tioram

14-Feb-25 • duncan_ireland • flickr

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The estuary of the River Shiel meets the South Channel of Loch Moidart, here. Castle Tioram is just right or north of this image, Moidart, Scotland.

Commentary. The rocky and tree-lined peninsulas of Moidart meet the Atlantic near the Mouth of the River Shiel. A number of skerries block the full effects of the ocean swell. Sand-bars create islands that also divert the tide into clear channels. Further inland, these layers of defence make for calm, untroubled waters for sailors or kayakers, but, beware, tides turn quickly. In next to no time, vast areas of sandbank are revealed, as land outstrips water channels. What a mellow, serene, unspoiled coastline this is. Understated. Often undiscovered. But when discovered….. a precious treasure. And so it was for us. On a warm, balmy, summer afternoon, in late July 2013, my son and I walked a five-mile circuit, including part of the “Silver Walk,” around and through the hills and lochs of Moidart. Such were the scenes, the tranquillity and beautiful isolation, that Scotland began to work its magic. Troubles dissipated, anxiety was discarded. This incredible world put its hand on our shoulders and suddenly……harmony was restored. The transient pressures of life……seemed, just that…… temporary, minor, unworthy of our concern. The natural world told us – “Be part of this, and carry on.” And we did!

27-Jul-13 • Scotland by NJC. • flickr

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The sumptuous coastline of Moidart. When the tide is out Eilean Tioram with Castle Tioram becomes an isthmus. Right, is also where the River Shiel meets the sea at Loch Moidart's South Channel, Scotland.

Commentary. A southerly view from Castle Tioram* towards the river estuary of the River Shiel. Rocky, forest-clad hills pocketing numerous picturesque lochans. A plethora of oak and pine- smothered islands in the estuary and offshore. Superb trails and walks with splendid vistas inland and seaward. History, panoramas, verdant slopes. Moidart is a hidden jewel. Find it, and enjoy. *pronounced “Cheerum.”

27-Jul-13 • Scotland by NJC. • flickr

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Castle Tioram from the Silver Walk, Moidart, Scotland.

Commentary. The West Coast of Scotland is not one landscape. It is nine or ten, eleven or twelve. This part of the three thousand mile coastline is different again. Mellow, lower scale and green like southern Cornwall or Devon, but different again, no sandy beaches. Unlike adjacent areas a hundred miles north or south, no grand fjords, no majestic cliffs and no tourist nodes. Yet Moidart has an ethereal, spiritual, mystical appeal. Perhaps its history, perhaps being off the beaten track gives it a timeless, unspoiled mystery and aura. A sprinkling of islands appear to clutter a ria, a drowned river valley, but the rocky shore and tree-smothered hills and islands are unique. The ruin of Tioram* gives a focal point. The dazzling, penetrating light feels like spirits of old, smiling, and enjoying the heaven they thought was elsewhere, here on Earth. Tioram* pronounced “Cheerum.”

27-Jul-13 • Scotland by NJC. • flickr

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The lush, wooded coastline of Loch Moidart, a supreme , unspoiled landscape/seacape renowned for its many rocky, pine-fringed islands and extensive sandbanks, when the tide is out, Inverness-shire, Scotland.

Commentary. The “Silver Walk,” so named because of a hoard of Elizabethan coins, found nearby, is a fantastic, if rocky, path connecting Doirlinn and Castle Tioram to the head of Loch Moidart near Drynie Hill. This area is largely an undiscovered jewel in the West Coast’s inventory of world-class scenery. The steep wooded slopes and islands are wonderful. Straight out of a Tolkien fantasy. It feels completely unique, dreamy, peaceful and beautiful, yet, though remote, and removed from the madding crowd, it still retains a warm, cosy familiarity. At low tide there is a wide expanse of pink sand and mud dotted with a myriad of islets, skerries and rocks. When the tide is in, the oak and pine-laden islands are like emerald jewels set in a cobalt blue sea. Fortunately, Moidart’s remoteness is its greatest quality. Only an adventurous few reach its shores, but their assured approval will mean they will return, again and again and again.

27-Jul-13 • Scotland by NJC. • flickr

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The rocky, pine-clad islands, the pink, tidal sandbanks, the remote, hilly, wooded, shoreline hills, the blue and the green. This is Loch Moidart in all its High Summer glory, Ardnamurchan, Scotland.

Commentary. Recounting a horde of silver Elizabethan coins, found nearby, the Silver Walk snakes its way, precariously, eastwards, along the steep southern shore of Loch Moidart. When the tide is out, endless sandbanks are revealed, dotted by oak and pine-laden islands. Here, with the tide in, the forested hills and rocky shore contrast, richly, with the blue water of a glorious July day. The original walk continues for nearly four miles to the head of the loch near Drynie Hill. My preferred route was to turn south, uphill, near Torr Port á Bhàta via Lochan na Fola back to Doirlinn. Simply magnificent!

27-Jul-13 • Scotland by NJC. • flickr

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The sublime and pristine coastline of Loch Moidart between Ardnamurchan and Arisaig, Scotland.

Commentary. Here, there is not the steep, deep, harsh, rocky, grand slopes of fjords, only twenty miles to the north or south. Here, is a Ria, a drowned river valley, like those of Devon or Cornwall, Pembrokeshire or Sydney Harbour. Shallower in depth and gradient, gentler, more wooded. Golden seaweed, sandbanks, islands, lower hills and a richness of colour that belies its latitude. This is Loch Moidart. A sublime, marvellous place. So natural. So unspoiled. So perfect. What more can I say?

27-Jul-13 • Scotland by NJC. • flickr

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Magnificent Moidart. The wooded hills and islands of Loch Moidart. River meets sea in this tidal estuary of sandbanks and channels. West Coast of Scotland.

Commentary. Oh glorious place. Oh wondrous spectacle. This amazing, convoluted shoreline of estuaries, inlets and channels, constantly framed by verdant, ancient hills and dotted with islets of Scots pine or deciduous oak, is a delight, indeed. The scent of the sea permeates the air as the breeze softens the heat of the climb. Here, over five hundred feet above the Silver Walk – the world is our oyster. Life is good, life is kind as this marvellous scene unfolds. Just left of the highest summit in this image is a vague glimpse of the Black Cuillins of Skye, forty miles distant. Right of centre on the hilly horizon is the sweeping curve of the main A 861 as it turns and plunges down to the sea at Glenuig. The hills of Loch Moidart are so beautiful and yet so understated as they cradle the ruin of Castle Tioram*, to the west of here. Silver walk, blue walk, green walk, salmon-pink walk. All hues are seen and enjoyed on this breath-taking excursion. *pronounced “Cheerum.”

27-Jul-13 • Scotland by NJC. • flickr

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